Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors alike praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a global network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," according to a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city is little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to explore these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
